The norm now demands that the device does not fall apart when 7 kN are applied, but that's it. The definition requires a manual force on the braking end that continuously increases the force on the load end. Now there is EN 15151-2, "Manual braking devices", this covers all simple tubers and the assisted devices we discuss here. One blocked, they must withstand 2 kN for one minute with 0.3 m slip. These devices must block automatically, even with the braking end just hanging down, after 1.8 m of rope running through. The problem is that there is no norm for the assisted belaying, so users are trapped when similar looking devices behave quite differently.įor auto-blocking, there is EN 15151-1 called "Braking devices with manually assisted locking". I did not say autoblock, I said autotuber. > It's an assisted belay device, not an autoblock-type device. So, bring a crash-pad when you test the Pilot The ATC Pilot lets the rope go through and it accelerates! Ergo Belay locks perfectly, no slipping at all. In this situation, good old Mammut Smart lets the rope slowly creep through, this is fine since both are slowly lowered. Now you would expect an auto-tuber to lock, wouldn't you? What happens if the belayer loses control of the breaking end? This is the situation a belayer is in, lifted from the ground when the climber has fallen. Attach the device, and hang my 200 lbs into it. Make the following test: hang a fixed rope in the first quickdraw in the gym. Unfortunately, it is no way better than these two, it is the worst "supposed-to-be-locking" device I have met. It comes in the shape of an auto-tuber, and looks like a cross-breed of the Salewa Ergo Belay, and the Edelrid Jul 2. It worries me that the device does not work reliably when you need it most. What worries me with the Black Diamond ATC Pilot is not the use of material, that I consider safe. Following links to the device and the instructions. Meanwhile, I wrote to Black Diamond, and I'll keep you posted. What's your opinion? Is it only me thinking this? However, that warning in the instructions puts some doubts in my mind. Of course, I’m sure Black Diamond tested it in different ways and loads. Of course, we do take care of our gear, but what if somehow there is a sudden force applied on the bottom part of the device? Would that brake it? If it can break by dropping, it could break easier after loading it suddenly. I just got the latest Black Diamond ATC Pilot. By reading the instructions, it emerges that the lower part, made of plastic, might break the device by dropping it or walking on it. I'm not an expert at all, so please if I'm saying something that does not make sense let me know.
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